[SKIN TRUTH] Open, Pores!

As mentioned in the previous column, the molecular weight of collagen is around 300,000 daltons (300,000 g/mol) so skin penetration is impossible. This is because normally, the size that is able to get through the skin keratin layer is less than 500 daltons. There are low-level substances that fall below 500 daltons such as certain vitamins, amino acids, and peptides and if these ingredients are used at proper levels of concentration in cosmetics, they can be effective in protecting the skin as well.



However, if the vitamins and peptides are taken out of the ingredients in the majority of the cosmetics that are used today, most of the remaining ingredients are plant extracts. Theoretically, in cases like these, plant extracts are similar in molecular weight with collagen so they cannot be effectively absorbed into the skin. Despite that, there are definitely products that are effective. But why is that?

Although the skin is surrounded by a kinetic layer, it is not completely closed off. And as we all know, there are countless pores in the skin. While pores are a gateway to remove oil and sweat, it can also be an entryway for the absorption of other substances as well. And while there is no official way to measure such absorption and this is merely a theoretical assumption, after an experiment of applying the same active ingredients to the scalp and to the face, the scalp was observed to have much more drastic and faster results than the face. Though the face is covered in a light dusting of hair (peach fuzz), the width of this hair is said to be less than 0.03mm. In comparison, hair on the scalp is said to have a width of about 0.06mm. This leaves more room for absorption thus more evident results. From this we can assume that the difference in the size of pores is the variable that affects the amount of absorption.



In that case, there is another way to increase the absorption of ingredients. By raising the temperature of your skin, the pores will expand thus creating wider openings for the product to get through. One could do this through exercise, steaming, hot baths and so forth to gently open up the pores and thus increase the effectiveness of your skin products.

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